Pablo Neruda's La Chascona & Other Lovely Finds in Bellavista

January 8, 2011 (part II)

Arriving into the neighborhood of Bellavista, we soon encountered a large outdoor craft market selling various Chilean-made art & craft-type items. We browsed the shops before gravitating toward one of the more unique stands selling knitted items: sweaters, vest, neck warms; each designed with a very particular Chilean Style in hip, interesting colors. This definitely wasn't your cooking-cutter souvenir stand; we happily picked up a few items for ourselves and few more to give as gifts.

We didn't get to wonder around the craft market too long (probably a good thing for budget purposes ;), asit was nearing the time of our schedule tour at  La Chascona, Pablo Neruda's house in Santiago), which we easily found tucked away on a side street of Bellavista. We browsed the gift shop and cooled off with some iced tea in the on-site cafe The weather was was much warmer today, necessitating a bit of cooling down after our longish trek from Providencia to Bellavista.

Now, I must admit that this is where my real-time journaling from our trip to Chile ends. Upon returning to "real life" back in the States and the demands of full-time job, I quickly lost motivation to write down a play-by-play report of what occurred during our remaining hours in Chile. But I will try to reflect on the experience a bit here.

La Chascona

And perhaps it will help that this wasn't my first visit to La Chascona. No, I also visited Neruda's Bellavista home way back in 2003; back in the days before I was using a digital camera;  before Facebook had been invented; before many of the modern conveniences that we enjoy in 2011. I have pictures of this visit somewhere....tucked away in an old photo album I'm sure; certainly not available in electronic format. My visit to La Chascona occurred early in my 2003 study abroad experience, at a time when my knowledge of Chile was much more limited than in is today and my appreciation for the eccentric poet non-existent (Pablo who?). So I was thankful to have a second opportunity to visit La Chascona with the added benefit of having studied Chilean culture and Neruda's poetry in greater depth.

As Eóin's Epic Travel Blog describes, "La Chascona was actually built and named after Neruda’s third wife, Matilde Urrutia, although at the time it was built he was still married to his second wife and Matilde was a secret…Anyway, his house is just as bizarre and quirky as the man himself. It’s decked out, like all his houses, to look and feel like a ship. Curved ceilings, ship furniture, water running past the window, narrow rooms and lots of rum. You should read a little bit about his life, a life he seemed to spend constantly lying and covering things up. I suppose the title of his last book pretty much sums up his days; ‘I Confess that I have Lived’."

I particulary enjoyed Irene Gimeno Espasa's take on the life of Neruda in her post, I CONFESS THAT I HAVE LIVED: THE LIFE OF PABLO NERUDA, SOUTH AMERICA’S FINEST POET: "Chilean poet Pablo Neruda had one of those existences that do justice to life. He got a taste of happiness and love, of justice and heroism, as well as bitterness, sadness and exile."

After the tour of La Chascona, we decided to go for quick happy hour drink before it was time to head back to the hotel and prepare for my flight back to North America, cold weather and short days of little sunshine. As we enjoyed our tasty beers among the tree-lined streets of Bellavisita, Santiago summer seemed to be in full swing; groups of friends filled the cafes and street-side tables for several blocks in either direction. A warm breeze blew through the air. I could have stayed another week. Or two. 

Enjoying a beer in Bellavista

But it was time to head to the airport, which was jam-packed full of other international tourist, most of whom were destined for the same fate as myself. A fate that included a 8 + hour plane ride, followed by a not-so-pleasant experience of clearing customs at 5am, followed by many hours in the Miami airport. All ending with the realization that it is wintertime where I live. And it gets dark at 5pm. And there are no leaves on the trees. And its cold. 

Which is why it is so important to be thankful for those blazing hot days we had this past summer. 

And that is the end of my Chilean Adventure of January 2011. Now on to other blogging topics...

Modern Conveniences in Santiago, Chile

January 8, 2011

Last day in Chile - *sigh*.

Before checking out of our hotel in Valparaiso, we were able to get in touch with the Neruda Foundation in Santiago to make an appointment to see La Chascona. Unlike the La Sebastiana in Valparaiso, you can't just walk up to Neruda's house in Santiago. We were happy to secure a tour on such short notice and very much looking forward to the opportunity to have another peak into Nerudas personality through his uniequely decorated home.

We called a taxi to take us to the bus terminal (a much quieter locale than its counterpart in Santiago), and within 15 minutes of our arrival at the terminal we were on a bus headed to Santiago. I never cease to be amazed at the professionalism and quality of service offer by the major bus companies in Chile. All of the coaches I've ridden in have been very comfortable and comparable to any charter bus in the U.S. TurBus has gotten the business down to a science, and all the employees seem to be perfectly orchestrated so that departures and arrivals are exactly on cue.

Our hour and a half journey from Valparaiso took us through the wine region of the Casablanca Valley (very pretty country indeed), and around 1pm we were pulling back into the bus terminal in Santiago. A taxi ride later through the leafy streets of downtown over to Provedencia, we arrived at our "petit" hotel. The Meridiano Sur is located along a quiet street, just off the main drag in an "old money" neighborhood of Santiago. The staff of this intimate hotel were quick to greet us: a woman, who appeared to be the owners/manager, and a gentleman in his late 50's who appears to be a newly minted employee. The gentleman showed us around the hotel; a converted home completely re-done in a crisp, modern Chilean style (white walls, wood floors, lots of glass, Chilean artwork, IKEA-style furniture). There was a cozy reading/living area with travel information and a flat screen TV, along with a small but functional computer station.Instead of getting two rooms, we opted for the penthouse suite on the top (3rd) floor, which had four beds and a nice seating area.

Meridiano Sur

After getting settled into the hotel and freshening up a bit, we headed out in search of LUNCH. Hot on the Frommers trail, I selected a place on the main street (Avenida Provedencia), just minutes from our hotel, but also on the way to Bellavista, where we were headed next. Bar Liguria received a *** Frommers rating, along with a "moments" designation in the "inexpensive dining category, so we figured it was worth a visit. The food was good, the atmosphere fun and lively, and it certainly was very memorable. You could tell the place got it's fair share of tourist (our waiter insisted upon trying out his [somewhat lacking] English skills on  us), but there was also a good number of locals dining alongside the gawking sightseers which helped to retain some of it's hole-in-the-wall charm. Upon sitting down, the waiter immediately asked us if we'd like to try an appetizer of  machas a la parmesana  (razor clams on the halfshell smothered and baked with a layer of parmesan cheese on top). Dad, ever optimistic of the palatability of seafood in Chile, promptly agreed to an order, speculating in fact that we might need a double order? No, I think a single will do...

Bar Liguria

After finishing up a tasty lunch of octopus salad with avocado, tomatoes, greens, and a light balsamic vinaigrette, we emerged from the restaurant and into the warm summertime air to continue our walk towards Bellavista. We had a little over an hour to kill before our tour was schedule dot begin at Pablos Neruda's house, La Charascona, so we were able to take our time and check out some of the sights along the way.

Fortunately, the route from Bar Liguria to Bellavista was lined with leafy trees and interspersed with grassy promenades. Walking through Parque Balmaceda, we passed by a few couples necking on park benches before stopping to appreciate the beautiful fountain (Fuente Bicentenario) and rather interesting sculpture ("Homenaje a Rodo"). Apparently both the fountain and statute are recent additions to the park; built in 2005 to commemorate Chile's Bicentennial, which was celebrated on on September 18, 2010.

Our lazy stroll through the park was interrupted by the sight of an ambulance with flashing lights and a quickly growing crowd of spectators peering in on the recent victim of a traffic accident. The scene was decidedly different than anything you might encounter back in the states, where police would have ensured that onlookers were kept at a reasonable distance from the scene of the incident.

Fuente Bicentenario

Homenaje a Rodo

Car wreck near  Parque Balmaceda

Car wreck near  Parque Balmaceda

Wait, There's an Armada in Chile?

January 7, 2011 (part III)

After having our fill of seafood at Mis Nietos, we took a stroll along the inlet to appreciate the crashing waves and spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean. This particular stretch of road was well-equipped with a nice sidewalk and periodic look-out points from which to gaze upon the harbor in the distance. A strong breeze off the ocean was perfectly complemented by the brightly shining afternoon sun to make for comfortable strolling weather. We walked slowly and took many photos as we fought off the urge for an after lunch siesta.

Caleta El Membrillo

I'm fairly certain my Mom would have continued this meandering walk along the coast for the rest of the afternoon. However, we had a long list of things to see and it was already approaching 4:00pm and it was time to get a move-on. We began walking back in the direction we had come, toward the city center. On the map, it looked like our next destination, Museo Naval y Maritimo, couldn't possibly be more than a mile or so down the coast. So instead of catching a bus, we walked. And then we kept walking - for nearly an hour. Needless to say, it was more than a mile. As we walked, the scenery quickly turned from views of crashing waves and sweeping vistas to a more industrial scene. As we neared the port, we saw several university buildings for marine studies, as well as a facility for the Chilean Navy (La Armada Chilena).

Finally, we arrived at the base of Ascensor Atilleria  - the elevator that would take us to our destination at the top of the steep hill. Like the other ascensores in Valparaiso, La Atilleria looked as if it had received few repairs since it was originally built in the late 1800s. Unique to La Atilleria is that it is much larger than the other ascensores of Valparaiso, with capacity for 10-15 people vs. the 4-6 person capacity of the other elevators we had ridden in. The views on the way up the ride up were especially rewarding; this was the first time we had been up on the hillside while the sun was out and the blue sky provided a nice contrast to the brightly colored buildings and lush gardens that were in full summer bloom.

Ascensor Atilleria 

Ascensor Atilleria 

Ascensor Atilleria 

At the top of the elevator, we found the usual lively scene that we had begun to expect at the top of an ascensor in Valparaiso: vendors selling souvenirs, musicians, a cafe with an excellent view, and of course other fellow tourist. There was also a nice gazebo and pleasant tree-covered Paseo 21 de Mayo that provided a nice setting for some panorama photos of the city (the promenade is named to commemorate  a naval battle that occurred on the 21st of May, 1879 in Iquique, Chile during the War of the Pacific). We spent a bit of time looking at the souvenir stands; Mom was on a bit of a gift-buying shopping rampage - fair warning to any of our relatives that receive kitsch little South American trinkets this holiday season ;).

After some effort, we were able to pull her away from the souvenir stands and up the flight of stairs leading to the Naval Museum. Housed in a grand old white building at the very peak of the hill and surrounded by a well-cared for lawn, it seemed a world away from the grit and grime of the harbor below. Along the pathway leading up to the museum, a friendly golden retriever was enjoying a lively game of fetch by hoisting his chew toy (an old plastic coke bottle filled with sand) over the 4 ft. tall fence so that it could be thrown by passersby . Great fun and seriously entertaining for all involved.

Up at the Museo Naval y Maritimo, we paid our entry fee and browsed the many different rooms that recounted Chilean naval history. I was surprised to learn that Chile had been involved with several major conflicts over the past 200 years since their independence from Spain. When considering the length of Chile's coast, it really shouldn't be that surprising that their navy is as prolific as it is - in the harbor earlier in the day, we had seen row after row of navy ships.  I suppose these are the things one becomes enlightened about through travel and museum visits such as these.

Museo Naval y Maritimo

After another ride on the ascensor, we were back in the flat area of the city. Unable to locate a taxi (a noticeable trend during our stay in the area), we hopped on a city bus that delivered us to the base of the street leading up to our hotel. This cut our journey in half but we still had a hefty uphill walk ahead of us. Thankfully we continued to be blessed with especially nice weather that day, which made the never-ending walking a little less arduous. The route up the hill took us on many of the stairways and narrow pathways that we had traversed the day before. En route, we picked up our two bottles of wine and water for the night and retired to the Hotel for a bit of R & R before dinner.

Happy to have a little down time after a long day of walking and sightseeing, I spent some time in our lovely room peering out the window overlooking the hills of Valpo with a pleasant breeze blowing through the curtains as the sun began to set and the city lights began to twinkle. With wine glass in hand, I enjoyed the beats of typical Chilean music playing from the stereo (a CD my Dad had bought from one of the musicians who had serenaded us at lunch today) while catching up on some journal writing.

Once the bottles of wine were empty around 9:30, we walked the few blocks down the hill to the cluster of restaurants we had eaten at the day before. Seeing as how we had once again managed to get a late start on dinner, our dining options were limited by the amount of seating still available (waiting on tables is uncommon in Chile; it is expected patrons will stay for the better part of the evening, so it is not likely for a table to become available halfway through the dinner hour.) After peaking in a few different restaurants, we decided our best bet would be Almacen Nacional - the same place we had eaten at for lunch the day before, but hard to disagree with given it's convenient location, convivial atmosphere and reasonable prices. We ordered a couple tablas (appetizer trays) that included meats, cheese, veggies and olives prepared in typical Chilean styles.  Good, but nothing to rave about. After a quick walk up the hill, we were headed to bed at the early hour of 11:15.

Almacen Nacional

Conger Eel, Say What ???

January 1, 2011 (part II)

By the time our harbor tour was over, the morning fog and clouds had given way to beautiful blue skies. As we turned our thoughts to lunch, we decided to take a local bus down the coast a few miles to check out a spot recommended to us by one of the friendly staff members back at Hotel Thomas Somerscales where we were advised that we would find good, fresh, typical Chilean seafood.

Arriving at Caleta El Membrillo ( "Quince Inlet" - This inlet owes its name to the grove of quince trees that was once there.), we were immediately swarmed by a half dozen waiters from each of the seafood restaurants clustered here. We decided to let Mom choose the spot this time, and she selected Mis Nietos, which had an upstairs dining area with lots of windows that provided sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean. There was nothing fancy about the restaurant, but the tables were colorfully decorated in bright pink and purple table cloths that matched the uniforms of the friendly and attentive wait staff. There were only a few other tables occupied when we arrived shortly after 2pm (a normal hour for lunch in Chile), but the spacious dining area was by no means packed. Our fellow dinners appeared to be local middle class Chileans, along with a couple other groups of Latin American tourist. We were definitely off the tourist map here (both literally and figuratively), which added an element of adventure and made the reward of a an authentic experience even more special. 

Mis Nietos - "My Grandkids" - Seafood Restaurant in Caleta El Membrillo

Our waiter friends at Caleta el Membrillo - soliciting our business at the various seafood restaurants 

The waiter recommended the Congria (Conger Eel), Corvina (Sea Bass) and Reineta (white fish, found exclusively in Chile), so we ordered one of each and hoped for the best. Dad decided to take a chance on the seafood soup, despite our prior experience with the dish back in Santiago. After we ordered, the waiter came by to ask if we'd like an Apéritif ("de la casa" - FREE). Well, sure. Why not?  We were each given little shots of pisco sour  (which were much better tasting than the strait pisco that we were given back in Vina de Mar)along with a  plate of super delicious empanads de marisco (fried seafood turnover). Next came the Reineta (white fish), simply grilled with butter and served on a fish-shaped plate. Dad's seafood soup had the same funky taste as the one at the fish market in Santiago. At this point we had determined that this was not the result of spoiled seafood but rather a by-product of the clams or oysters contained within; at any rate, I don't think we'll be ordered anymore seafood soup on this trip!

Caleta El Membrillo

Sea Lions & Cargo Ships in Valparaíso

January 7, 2011 (part I)

I love old houses. This is likely due to the fact that I grew up in a Victorian farmhouse and spent many a-weekends perusing antique stores with my Dad looking for period pieces to decorate our old home. When we were planning our trip to Valparaiso, my Dad made a special request to stay in one of the old Victorian mansions that line the hillsides of the port-side city. We certainly found what we were looking for in Hotel Thomas Somerscales, and on our second day in Valparaiso, we finally took some time sit around and enjoy it's beautiful decor while enjoying a breakfast of fresh orange juice, furit, pastries, jam, cheese and of course cafe con leche served in one of the elegant vaulted rooms downstairs.

Decor at Hotel Thomas Somerscales

Around noon, we set off down the hill to the Prat Pier (Muelle Prat). Today our intention was to take a boat tour around the harbor. When I had visited Valparaiso in winter 2003 (North American Summer), we had gone out in a little fishing boat all by ourselves (at least that is how I remembered it). Today, the fishermen were sending out boats filled to capacity with large groups of tourist. Thankfully, we didn't have to wait long for a tour - a boat quickly came along and we were hustled into the hull along with 30 of our closest friends.  The seating arrangement was chummy at best - a clear example of how "personal space" has a different definition in Latin America. And I tell you, if this had been a boat full of Americans, they would have protested to the high heavens (my Mom was about to, if she didn't get a life jacket "right now!").

Boat Tours - CLP $2000 - about $4 USD

The guy in charge of filling the boat had a few people straddling cross beans and anyone under the age of 8 was kindly asked to sit on their parent's lap. No one on the boat ride was cold for the lack of body warmth! The entry to the boat was another interesting aspect - the boat rocked back and forth vigorously, only held to the shore by a few ropes that the skippers held onto. Everyone from grandmas to small children were helped on with a friendly hand (or two, when necessary).

Welcome Aboard!

We didn't leave the dock until the boat was 100% full;  and surprisingly everyone was given (and expected to wear!) a life jacket. The boat organizer-come-tour-guide commenced yelling over the motor to provide us with information about the boats in the harbor as we made our way up the coast, past large freight liners carrying fruit, a line of 100+ newly disembarked cars (presumably from Asia), as well as a group of sea linoins perched on a buoy sunning themselves. We also passed by a magnetic crane at the unloading docs where thousands of containers were being moved. Quite the logisticial feat!  After about 45 minutes we disembarked from our boat tour and began our search for lunch.

Yep, that's a sea lion!

Summer Nights, in January

January 6, 2011 (Part V)

A few short hours of relaxing were all we were afforded after our long afternoon of trekking up and down the hills of Valparaíso. After a quick trip to the liquor/wine/beer convenience store to pick up provisions for happy hour, we spent the remaining daylight hours enjoying a delicious bottle of Chilean wine and snacking on smoked sausage and fresh cherries in our nicely appointed rooms. We especially enjoyed watching all the city lights flicker on from the view high atop the hill at Hotel Somerscales, evidenced by the many pictures.

We were enjoying the views so much in fact, that we didnt' get our act together to head out to dinner until after 10pm (!!!). Now this wasn't really as bad as it sounds. After all, the summer solstice of the southern hemisphere had only just occurred two weeks earlier, so the sun didn't set until 9pm.

Conveniently, our hotel was located in close proximity to several excellent dining options, so we didn't have to walk far for dinner. We peaked into a Thai restaurant, but it was already packed full, so we chose the nearby Epif - a hip vegetarian bar/restaurant just off the main street. The place had a nice vibe to it, with organically inspired decor and creative little touches such as using the bindings of old children's books for the menu covers. We ordered a cheap Chilean wine (Cono Sur, for only $13 USD) and also a tabla (plate) that included several feature appetizer dishes. Everyone was still hungry, so we tacked on two Tofu BBQ burritos and a tofu peanut dish. It took a while for the additional food to arrive, but when it did, it was very tasty. 

After dinner, we trekked back up the hill and I fell asleep once again with wirting instruments in hand, and found my journal & pen buried in the covers the next morning.

View from our hotel room in  Valparaíso

Tofu BBQ burritos at Epif

The Cats of Valparaíso

 I'd be remiss not to give mention to the many gatos roaming the streets of Valparaíso. Similar to the quiltros in Santiago and other Chilean cities, the cats of Santiago are very much a part of the local culture. Their presence in the city is related to the fact that Valparaíso is still an industrial port, and fishing remains a part of the local culture. With all the ships in the harbor, I imagine there must be large supplies of rats roaming the streets near the port. The whole scenario reminds me of the cat-and-mouse games between Fievel and the cats of An American Tail. In any case, the cats seem pretty contented.

Acensores y Escaleras: Exploring the hills of Valparaíso

January 6, 2011 (part IV)

 Acensores y Escaleras means "elevators and stairs" in Spanish - two things that Valparaíso has a lot of. Many of the acensores (or funiculares, as they're also referred to), date back to the late 19th century, so riding in one is very much like a trip back in time. This unique aspect of Valparaíso's transportation system makes it well worth a few trips up and down the hillside, so we decided to spend an afternoon crisscrossing the city to take it all in.

Starting from the the flat part of town (the historical center, near the port), we took our first ride on Ascensor Concepción . A rickety old thing that slowly creaked up the side of the hill at a 30 degree angle, I think we all began to question what we had gotten ourselves into. Once at the top, we found ourselves transported to a totally different world. There was a light breeze and musicians could be heard playing in the background alongside vendors selling jewelry and other souvenirs. We also found a cute little place to stop for a cup of coffee at a cafeteria called Cafe Turri, a well known meet-n-greet spot at the top of the acensor, complete with patio seating and sweeping city views. The cafe wasn't quite open for afternoon tea (Las Once), so we walked around the neighborhood, peaked in a few of the art shops , and checked out the vibrantly colored houses of Paseo Atkinson. At Cafe Turri, I enjoyed a delicious artesanal beer from a local brewery while the rest of the group opted for coffee. It felt nice to take a break and enjoy the views before continuing our walking tour downhill, through various stairways and plazas before calling it a day and heading back to the hotel for a much needed happy hour!

Riding up Ascensor Concepción (like I said, it was STEEP!)

Enjoying an afternoon once at Cafe Turri

Graffiti-lined Pasaje Bavestrello, one of the many covered stairs paths in Valpo

Pablo Neruda's House: A visit to La Sebastiana

January 6, 2011 (part III)

A Chilean poet, diplomat and socialist, Pablo Neruda is certainly one of the most colorful personalities the country has produced in the last century. I was first exposed to his writing in a Latin American Poetry class that I took during my first trip to Chile in 2003. I was especially intrigued by his collection of love sonnets, Cien Sonetos de Amor. Each sonnet  is short and playful, yet somehow produces a depth of meaning that is difficult to accomplish in standard prose. It was the first time that I found myself enjoying poetry, and I have been fascinated by Neruda ever since.

I believe one of the best windows into someone's personality is to view the inside of their home, and Neruda does not disappoint in this regard. A foundation has been established in his name, and his three homes are now available for viewing by the general public. As one would expect from a poet, each home has a name: La Chascona (in Santiago), La Sebastiana (in Valparaíso), and Isla Negra (in Isla Negra). During my 2004 visit, I was fortunate to visit all three. On this trip, we made it to both La Chascoa and La Sebastiana.

La Sebastiana sits high atop one of the hills of Valparaíso. Our guidebook had provided instructions for catching a colectivo (see my previous post about this transportation option), so we decided to give it a go. We identified the appropriate collectivo without much trouble (being a well-tread tourist landmark, there were plenty of other folks doing the same thing), and were quickly transported up the winding streets in what can only be described as the most insane taxi ride I've ever been on. I have never gotten up a hill quicker. The taxi driver had to have been going close to 50 mph through narrow alley ways, giving a honk here and there when he thought it was necessary. 

We arrived safely at the gate to La Sebastiana where we purchased our entry tickets and began the self-guided tour. Via our audio guide, we learned that the house was built in the late 1940s by an architect named Sebastian (hence the name), who died before the unique house was fully completed. It sat unoccupied until Neruda purchased it in the early 1960's. The house has four floors with uniquely shaped rooms with lots of windows and knick-knacks that Neruda had carefully collected. One collection that I found particularly interesting was his colored glassware; Neruda believed it improved the taste of a drink. I have found myself searching for red and green wine glasses ever since - you know, just to check out the hypothesis ;).  Photos weren't permitted inside the house, so unfortunately I only have a few shots of the outside. 

La Sebastiana

View from the main floor of La Sebastiana

Valparaíso: A Whimsical & Inspiring City

January 6, 2011 (part II)

Valparaíso really is a whimsical place. All the guidebooks I read had indicated something to this effect, but the spirit of the city cannot truly be appreciated until you're actually walking among its hilly streets. I suppose this is true of most interesting cities, but I found Valparaíso to be more insipirational than most. It's geography is similar to many other hillside cities along the pacific coast (Acapulco and San Francisco, most notably), but it has an artistic spirit and historical charm that is unmatched. It is the type of place where one cannot help but feel inspired to create. With hundreds of murals throughout the city, a multitude of artisan shops, and restored Victorian mansions, I felt a wave of creativity sweep over me as we began walking down the hill from our hotel in search of lunch. 

Street Art in Valparaíso

Street Art in Valparaíso

We quickly found several interesting lunch choices, each with a distinct bohemian/Chilean flare that is so characteristic of Valparaíso and Cerro Alegre in particular. We decided on a place called Almacén Nacional ("National Market"), which in addition to serving excellent artesanal cuisine, also featured art by local artist. The chalk board menu outside had advertised a "menú del dia" for 3.800 (a fix prix lunch for ~ USD $8.00), so I went in side to inquire what the daily special was, and was happy to learn that the today's special was delectably interesting: a quinoa beet salad with avocado to start and a slow cooked beef pot roast accompanied by brown rice and a cooked squash/carrot combo - very tasty!

Almacén Nacional

Almacén Nacional

Viña to Valpo: Hostel Drama & Magical Old Houses

January 6, 2011 (Part I)

If you've ever stayed in a hostel, you know that they're not the most private accommodations availalble. And although we had private rooms at Hostal Reloj de Flores B&B (as opposed to communal bunks shared with 5-10 people you've never met before), we weren't immune the hostel lifestyle. Case in point: the only window in the room opened up to the main living area. Which is why I wasn't too surprised when I awoke the next morning to the voices of my fellow travelers having breakfast in the kitchen. On the bright side, the blazing hot temperatures from the day before had cooled to the point that I was able to sleep cozily under a heavy wool blanket. AND, by some miracle, the wireless internet was now functioning at lightning speed and I was able to  lazily check my e-mail from my smart phone while laying in bed. After being threatened by the fact that breakfast was ending in 10 minutes, I finally rolled out of bed and joined my chatty hostel-mates (young Brazilians and Argentinians)  in the kitchen for breakfast. 

View from our room at Hostal Reloj de Flores in Vina del Mar

Soon after breakfast we were loading our bags back into a taxi en route to the neighboring city of Valparaíso ("Valpo", for short). As we informed the taxi driver of our destination - a small B&B atop one of the city cerros (hills) - we were dismayed to learn that he wasn't familiar with the location. And as we began to climb the hills of Valparaíso, it was easy to see why - the streets twisted up the hillside like a vine; often changing name or dead-ending into a stairwell unexpectedly. But with the help of our trusty guide book, we 
arrived at the specified address in less than 20 minutes.

Winding Streets of  Valparaíso 

Climbing out of the taxi, our hotel - Hotel Casa Thomas Somerscales - was barely distinguishable among the other houses in the neighborhood of  Cerro Alegre  (literally, "Happy Hill"). A boutique hotel with only about 10 rooms, it was actually an old restored mansion transformed into a guest house. As the hotel staff  buzzed us into the gate from the sidewalk, we were immediately impressed with the magnificient facade and beautifuly maintained garden terrace, but daunted by the ~20 stairs we were faced with climbing to arrive at the front door. It was clear that this was going to be a magical place to stay - not unsimilar to the house portrayed in Isabel Allende's most famous book, The House of Spirits  (and my first introduction to Chile).

Entrance Gate from Street - Hotel Thomas Somerscales

Terrace of Hotel Thomas Somerscales

The  lavishly decorated foyer was even more impressive - decked out in period furniture appropriate to the age of the house (likely early 1900's since the Earthquake of 1906 destroyed most of the buildings in town). And even though we had arrived before check-in,  we were pleasantly surpised to learn that our rooms were indeed ready and so we settled into our rooms before setting out to find lunch. 

Foyer of Hotel Thomas Somerscales

   

A Night in Viña: An Illicit Cocktail Hour, Colectivos & Quiltros

January 5, 2011 (part VI)

My family is notorious for eating a late dinner. Even back in the U.S., during winter, it is not uncommon for the evening meal to get pushed back to 9pm or later. This tradition continued during our visit to Chile and was exasperated by the fact that the sun did not set until after 9pm. Most nights we found it challenging to get out to dinner before 10pm; mainly because were enjoying our cocktail hour too much. Since Chile is one of the more expensive countries in South America, we decided to save money by enjoying wine at the hotel before going out to dinner each night. For around USD $4.00 we could buy a good bottle of wine from the local convenience store, so we'd pick up a couple bottles and enjoy sitting out on the patio or sharing pictures that we had taken earlier in the day.

Our little hostel in Viña del Mar was the only place we stayed that explicitly prohibited its guests from enjoying food or beverages in their rooms. So as Mom & Dad arrived back at the hotel with our requisite 2 bottles of wine, we had to be a little more discrete than unusual. Fortunately, my parent's room had a private balcony with sweeping views of the hillside and Pacific ocean.

View of the Pacific Ocean from my parents room at Hostal Reloj de Flores B&B

As we set out for dinner, we soon realized that it wouldn't be as easy as we thought to find a taxi. Apparently everyone in Viña del Mar uses the system of Colectivos (group taxis with a set route) to get around. Unfortunately, its tough to use this system if you aren't familiar with the colectivos route. After about 10 minutes of walking and unsuccessfully finding a regular taxi, we decided to take our chances with the colectivo. So we hopped in and told the cabbie where we wanted to get off - at the cross street where our guide book indicated we would find a selection of acceptable eateries. To our amusement, we were only riding in the colectivo for a few blocks before the driver informed us that we had arrived at our requested location (doh!).

At any rate, we were excited to finally have arrived at a place where we could eat dinner. We found a little eatery called "Jerusalem, comida arabe" serving Mediterranean type cuisine, or more accurately - "Arab food". It was a simple type of place, serving shawarmas (gyro-type burritos). As we read over the menu, we were told that if we didn't order right that minute, that they would be closing the kitchen (it was nearly 11:00pm, after all). So we quickly ordered a tabla (a large plate) that consisted of stuffed grape leaves, falafel, and stuffed vegetables. I didn't think the food was anything special (it was all a bit dry and everything tasted the same), but the rest of the family seemed to be impressed. We walked the 15 minutes back to our hotel accompanied by a couple of friendly quiltros - stray dogs that seem to be omnipresent on the streets of Chile. To read more about the quiltro culture in Chile, the blog Cachando Chile, really sums it up nicely.

Los Quiltros

 

Getting an escort back to the hotel 

The Beach: Chilean Style

January 5, 2011 (part V)

Later in the afternoon, we decided to wonder down to the beach. That was probably the best decision we made all day. One of the reasons we chose our hotel was its proximity to the beach, so it was literally just a hop down the hill and a skip across the street to arrive at Playa Caleta Abarca ("hidden cove beach").

As mentioned previously, this was an unusually warm day in Viña del Mar, and the scene at Caleta Abarca fully reflected that. The fact that it was mid-week (Wednesday) didn't seem to matter in the least, because the place was PACKED.There were hordes of young Chileans braving the chilly Pacific waters (about the equivalent temperature to North Carolina beaches in mid-may; not warm). It seemed to be mostly young boys braving the waves, but there were also a few young girls. All the women were very conservatively dressed - I didn't see hardly anyone in a bikini and most had shorts and/or a tank top to cover up; even in the water. I've posted a few pics below, but you really have to see the video to fully understand what I'm talking about (first time I've ever posted anything on YouTube:): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoZy699Rutk

Viña del Mar: Garden City

January 5, 2011 (part IV)

After soaking in a bit of history at the Easter Island Museum, it was time to do a bit of people watching. A quick walk around the main plaza made it easy to understand why Viña del Mar is know as "La Ciudad Jardín" ("The Garden City") -- watch out New Jersey.




The plaza was bustling with city residents and tourist lounging in the grass, chatting with friends on the benches, or cooling off in the fountain. I went off to explore the area around the plaza, and it soon became apparent that the ice cream parlors were doing a bustling business that day. Each shop was packed full of vacationing Chileans, trying to cool off in the 100-degree heat. I considered joining them, but decided it wasn't worth the wait. Instead, I went back to my perch in the grass to do some more people watching.