Sea Lions & Cargo Ships in Valparaíso

January 7, 2011 (part I)

I love old houses. This is likely due to the fact that I grew up in a Victorian farmhouse and spent many a-weekends perusing antique stores with my Dad looking for period pieces to decorate our old home. When we were planning our trip to Valparaiso, my Dad made a special request to stay in one of the old Victorian mansions that line the hillsides of the port-side city. We certainly found what we were looking for in Hotel Thomas Somerscales, and on our second day in Valparaiso, we finally took some time sit around and enjoy it's beautiful decor while enjoying a breakfast of fresh orange juice, furit, pastries, jam, cheese and of course cafe con leche served in one of the elegant vaulted rooms downstairs.

Decor at Hotel Thomas Somerscales

Around noon, we set off down the hill to the Prat Pier (Muelle Prat). Today our intention was to take a boat tour around the harbor. When I had visited Valparaiso in winter 2003 (North American Summer), we had gone out in a little fishing boat all by ourselves (at least that is how I remembered it). Today, the fishermen were sending out boats filled to capacity with large groups of tourist. Thankfully, we didn't have to wait long for a tour - a boat quickly came along and we were hustled into the hull along with 30 of our closest friends.  The seating arrangement was chummy at best - a clear example of how "personal space" has a different definition in Latin America. And I tell you, if this had been a boat full of Americans, they would have protested to the high heavens (my Mom was about to, if she didn't get a life jacket "right now!").

Boat Tours - CLP $2000 - about $4 USD

The guy in charge of filling the boat had a few people straddling cross beans and anyone under the age of 8 was kindly asked to sit on their parent's lap. No one on the boat ride was cold for the lack of body warmth! The entry to the boat was another interesting aspect - the boat rocked back and forth vigorously, only held to the shore by a few ropes that the skippers held onto. Everyone from grandmas to small children were helped on with a friendly hand (or two, when necessary).

Welcome Aboard!

We didn't leave the dock until the boat was 100% full;  and surprisingly everyone was given (and expected to wear!) a life jacket. The boat organizer-come-tour-guide commenced yelling over the motor to provide us with information about the boats in the harbor as we made our way up the coast, past large freight liners carrying fruit, a line of 100+ newly disembarked cars (presumably from Asia), as well as a group of sea linoins perched on a buoy sunning themselves. We also passed by a magnetic crane at the unloading docs where thousands of containers were being moved. Quite the logisticial feat!  After about 45 minutes we disembarked from our boat tour and began our search for lunch.

Yep, that's a sea lion!

Summer Nights, in January

January 6, 2011 (Part V)

A few short hours of relaxing were all we were afforded after our long afternoon of trekking up and down the hills of Valparaíso. After a quick trip to the liquor/wine/beer convenience store to pick up provisions for happy hour, we spent the remaining daylight hours enjoying a delicious bottle of Chilean wine and snacking on smoked sausage and fresh cherries in our nicely appointed rooms. We especially enjoyed watching all the city lights flicker on from the view high atop the hill at Hotel Somerscales, evidenced by the many pictures.

We were enjoying the views so much in fact, that we didnt' get our act together to head out to dinner until after 10pm (!!!). Now this wasn't really as bad as it sounds. After all, the summer solstice of the southern hemisphere had only just occurred two weeks earlier, so the sun didn't set until 9pm.

Conveniently, our hotel was located in close proximity to several excellent dining options, so we didn't have to walk far for dinner. We peaked into a Thai restaurant, but it was already packed full, so we chose the nearby Epif - a hip vegetarian bar/restaurant just off the main street. The place had a nice vibe to it, with organically inspired decor and creative little touches such as using the bindings of old children's books for the menu covers. We ordered a cheap Chilean wine (Cono Sur, for only $13 USD) and also a tabla (plate) that included several feature appetizer dishes. Everyone was still hungry, so we tacked on two Tofu BBQ burritos and a tofu peanut dish. It took a while for the additional food to arrive, but when it did, it was very tasty. 

After dinner, we trekked back up the hill and I fell asleep once again with wirting instruments in hand, and found my journal & pen buried in the covers the next morning.

View from our hotel room in  Valparaíso

Tofu BBQ burritos at Epif

The Cats of Valparaíso

 I'd be remiss not to give mention to the many gatos roaming the streets of Valparaíso. Similar to the quiltros in Santiago and other Chilean cities, the cats of Santiago are very much a part of the local culture. Their presence in the city is related to the fact that Valparaíso is still an industrial port, and fishing remains a part of the local culture. With all the ships in the harbor, I imagine there must be large supplies of rats roaming the streets near the port. The whole scenario reminds me of the cat-and-mouse games between Fievel and the cats of An American Tail. In any case, the cats seem pretty contented.